Ansley's Italy Self Discovery Tour 2010 - Day 7

Oh Em Gee. I am full. I have been on what feels like a 3 day eating binge. Here is the summary of my last few days here:

1. Wake up
2. Shop / Visit Historic Site/ Museum
3. Eat 3 course meal (Antipasti, Pasta dish, meat dish) and caffé
4. Shop / Visit Historic Site/ Museum
5. Nap
6. Eat 4 course meal (Antipasti, Pasta dish, meat dish, dessert) and caffé
7. Walk around Rome
8. Rent movie back at Hotel Room

It has been, in a word, fantastic! Notice breakfast isn't anywhere in there. I am not a big breakfast person, and usually wake up just in time to be somewhere. There hasn't been one meal I haven't liked. Although I had lunch a couple days ago at Piazza di Poppalo that was just okay. It was a very trouristy area, so I only assume that was why.

Last night I ate at another resturant called "Roma Sparita", not to be confused with the one I tried 3 different times (and finally ate dinner at!) in Trastevere. While I wasn't dissapointed at the latter, the one last night was molto bene! The cacio e pepe was fantastic....I have no words. I was craving steak, so I also order bistecca that was served on top some greens. The meat was perfectly cooked (medium rare of course!) and seasoned to perfection. And the tirimusi...mmmmm.

I think I might bore people with my accounts of each meal, so I will spare everyone the delicious details until you ask me in person :) There was a nice Danish couple sitting next to me, that when I asked them where they were from, we stuck up a conversation and they invited me to sit at their table to have coffee with them. That is what travelling alone is all about people!

I did visit Vatican City and got the hear the Pope himself give his Sunday noon speech in St Peter's Square. I visited the St. Peter's Basilca as well, which was pretty cool. I myself am not Catholic, so I probably didn't have the greater appreciation and reverence that alot of people would have (i.e. my grandmother - who most likely would have demanded to meet the Pope in person). I was actually most looking forward to visiting the Sistine Chapel since I did a report on it in 5th grade, and wanted to see if my research was accurate. Sadly, it was closed.


I have noticed a scattering of people dressed up for Halloween tonight. It is nice to see the traditional ghosts and goblins and scary costumes. Halloween also reminds me of that line from mean girls when LaLohan's characters says Halloween is a excuse for girls to dress up like sluts, and it be okay.

Tomorrow is All Saint's Day and a holiday, so most everything will be closed. Perfectly fine with me since it is suppose to rain all day tomorrow, and there really isn't that I have left on my "must do's". Although the amount of places to visit is astounding. I could definitely come back and still have another list to accomplish.

36 hours left. Tic Toc.

Ansley's Italy Self Discovery Tour 2010 - Day 5 and 6

Okay, I am going to have to make this quick, because I am starving...and have a ways to walk for this restaurant.

I got to Rome yesteday and checked into the Hotel Artemide. The hotel is right in the middle of everything, which is nice to going to and from places, and is near a metro station. I chose this hotel becuase the ratings on Trip Advisor were stellar. Though after they showed me my room, I was a bit perplexed. As soon as I walked in my room, I got a whiff of what I can only describe as a weird staleness. Secondly, it was small. Like, you open the door and can place your foot on the bed. But it is the center of Rome, so I will let that slide. The bathroom wasn't much bigger, but again, being Rome, I am letting that slide. I know when I booked for a "Single" room, I got some weekend deal (though it is still costing me around 200€ a night), but they put me right near the maid's closest, so I can hear everytime they open the door and get something. Luckily, not much housekeeping goes on a night. Once of the few saving graces is the free mini bar (yes, it is free), which is restocked daily with bottled water (still and sparkiling), beer, fruit juices and a couple snacks. Which was nice when I needed something to nosh on a couple hours ago. I suppose I just need a place to lay my head my last couple days here. Oh well.

Yesterday, was mostly walking around Rome, and shopping. I got a nice outfit for my friend's wedding rehearsal dinner next Friday. I will be Italian chic. And I can't wait to wear my new Trussardi leather jacket on my next work casual Friday ;)

Today was the Borghese Museum, I am usually not a museum person, but I really enjoyed this one. An outstanding collection. I also walked over by the Spanish Steps. Now, can someone tell me why this is so famous, besides being really big marble stairs? I was took one picture and then hopped back on the metro. Call me underwhelmed.

Okay stomach is growling....

Ansley's Italy Self Discovery Tour 2010 - Day 6

Yes, I completely skipped over Day 5, but will give an update on yesterday and today in a bit. First, I need to go back to take my daily "power nap" (I am on vacation afterall...napping anytime is fine!) and then write a bit more before I head out to Trevi Fountain and the Pantheon.

And I have to vent about my hotel room here in Rome later as well...or as I like to call it "The Forgotten Room". ARGH....someone is getting a not so nice note on Trip Advisor!

Ansley's Italy Self Discovery Tour 2010 - Day 4

For the likes of me I cannot seem to get the word "asporto" right. This means "to go", as in take out. I just ordered a pizza from the neighborhood pizzaria and wanted it to go. I kept saying "asposto", which who knows that that means.

The pizza place was pretty good and had fresh dough and ingredients. I ordered the napoletana, which is mozzerella with capers. As I was getting my pizza when I noticed them making a pizza that had french fries on it. Holy cow, can I change my order????

Today was my dose of exercise. I spent a good 6 hours walking up and down the streets of Cagliari, which included some pretty, nix that, VERY steep hills. But it was great.

Here is my one issue, perhaps as an ignorant American, I just do not get. How do Europeans manage to wear full coats, scarves and hats in moderate weather and not get heat exhaustion? My predicament:

Today was a beautiful day, no doubt. It was clear blue skies, and about 70 degress. In Texas this would still be considered t shirt and shorts weather. I was in jeans, boots and a black light turtleneck and carried my jacket just in case (I never needed it). I did bring all proper European wear, thankyouverymuch; meaning no untailored jeans, no tennis shoes, nothing touristy. After a couple hours of steep hill climbs, I was dying. I was glistening to extreme, face flushed and most likely looking like I had just run the half. However, all the locals were dressed in coats and jackets, scarves tied nicely around their necks, taking the same path I was and looking cool. How is this possible? I have witnessed this before. When I studied in Madrid, I experienced the same thing. If anyone has any thoughts on this please enlighten me!

The highlight of my day was that I decided I would go to Lillicu again for lunch. Yes, it was that good. I wanted to get the spaghetti ai gambino to see if it was indeed just like Maw Maw makes, but alas they were not serving it for lunch. I can only guess it is because the roux was not made. And any good French or Italian knows, a proper sauce needs a proper roux. But I was not dissapointed in the house white wine, and a simple spaghetti with olive oil, herbs and garlic. And nice big slices of sauteed garlic! Squisito!

I walked around the historic district, and got some amazing scenic shots. I visited the Archelogical Museum, which had lots and lots (and lots) of artifacts dating back from 2000 BC.

The main entry to the historic district is called Bastione of San Remy. It is a sequence of multiple marble staircases, which in part gave me most of my workout. On my way up there were women and men all in the same dress standing idle as if waiting for something. Turns out they were guides for the Volkswagon Passat World Convention being held in Cagliari. They even had the restaurant at the top piazza set up as the "Passat Cafe". So now all your Passat owners, you know where some of your money went ;)

My flight out of Cagliari and back to Rome leaves at 8:20 in the morning, so I am calling it an early night to pack and possibly start on the only book I brought - The Girl with the Dragon Tattoo. Though Antonello just brought me an espresso and Mirta, so we will see how easy I fall asleep.

Cagliari has been wondeful. One of common questions I get from the locals is "Why Sardinia? Why not Milan, or Sicily", and my response is "Exactly that. It is not Milan or Florence or Sicily". I am sure they are great to visit, and I will prolly like to go there eventually. Maybe I just wanted to be different. But I was blown over of Cagliari, I can only imagine what the rest of Sardinia is like. It is a island treasure that you can truly come to escape. And it has everything!!! The beach, the history and the food! I only hope more people can discover it here. But then again, being lesser known is its beauty and perhaps why the locals want to keep it a secret.

Buena sera Cagliari....

Ansley's Italy Self Discovery Tour 2010 - Day 3 Part 2

So this entry is simply about food...

They eat later in the day here, similary to Spainsh times. So I was "early" eating dinner at 9 PM. Antonello referred me to a seafood restaurant called Lillicu (lilly - coo) that was in downtown. Of course I walked in and gestured "sola" and they sat me down in the middle of the restaruant. I have to admit this is where I feel a bit lonesome. Meals here are suppose to be shared over lengthy laughter and conversation and this restaurant was full of groups doing such. So of course being sat by myself in plain view was a bit intimidating. But a meal must be had!

The waiter, who spoke fairly good English came to get my drink order and got "vino blanco della cassa" and sparkling water. Side note, I love that Europe is so down with the sparkling water. When you order water, it is either "gas or no gas". I always get gas... okay, laugh it up. Even in the shops to get water to go, they have a "frizzante" option.

So, the restaurant offered an "aperitivo misto", which is basically a buffet of food options. The food was still plated and served to you by the waiter, but it was laid out in front of the restaurant for everyone to see. As much as wish I could be a local and stomach the marinated octopus, fish fritters and what looked like gray matter of some sort that people were scarfing down, I had to order off the menu to what I knew, even though it was a bit more expensive. Now, when I say I love seafood, I mean the boring kind- shrimp, lobster, scallops and some fish. Hard shelled anything and the tentacles of calamari makes me quezy. But, I had to suck it up. I am pretty sure that everything came from the ocean that was less than a half a mile away. So here is the food journey I decided to take:

• Antipasti (Starter) - Miranated Mussels
• Primi Piatti (First Course) - Spaghetti agli scampi
• Secondi Piatti Pesce (Main Course of fish) - Calamri fritti
• Dolci - Sebadas

This came with fresh bread of course. The mussels were pretty tasty, served freshly steamed in a garlicky broth. I was still skiddish with the textured of them, but satisfied and pretty darn proud of myself to reaching out.

Next was the pasta course. This was not your Red Lobster scampi. It had chopped up mini lobsters. And not just the meat, it was skeleton an all in a red sauce. I had my first bite and was blown over...I had to take another one just to be sure....and I was. It tasted almost exactly like my Maw Maws shrimp spaghetti. Any friend of mine can tell you that my grandmothers shrimp spaghetti is one of my alltime favorite dishes; mostly because of the sauce. She has no official recipe, just a little of this and a little of that, and it makes a dish that every grandchild request when they visit. This one was almost there...so close. I cleaned my bowl, when meant taking the bread and sopping up every last bit of the sauce.

Next was the calamari. I still cannot manage to eat the tentacles, but I was very happy with the "O" parts :), which was lightly battered and drizzled with lemon juice.

Even though I did not ask for it, the waiter brought out a complimentary Sebada, which is a typical Sardinian dessert. Very similar to a sopapilla on the outside, covered in honey, but inside with a soft gooey dessert cheese. Unfortunately, I was so full I only could have a few bites.

Of course my sola-ness attracted attention of the group of older gentlemen at a neighboring table and they ordered me a small shot of Mirta. Which is a Sardinian liquer that is served as a aperitif. It is dark dark burgandy in color and served cold. Takes a little like liquorice, but it very easy going down!

Stuffed and satisfied, I asked for "il conto". But before I left, I got to witness what I assume was the owner of the restaurant, break out his guitar and sing the italian version of the Frank Sinatra classic "My Way". Do not worry, I got it on video!

Ansley's Italy Self Discovery Tour 2010 - Day 3 Part I

So I am actually writing this at 11:30 in the morning because the internet was being skiddish last night. So you lucky readers will technically get two or three posts today.

First, sorry to hear the Rangers lost in Game 1. I have not read the details, but I am only assuming this is a strategic move to have us sweep the next 4 games and celebrate the World Series win in DFW. Back to the trip...

I guess I was not completely over my jet lag, because after a wonderful breakfast of pastries, proscuitto, cheese, caffè and Nutella (!!!!) from La Peonia B&B, I went back to my room and somehow fell asleep for another couple hours.

Even after the delay Antonello offered to take me on a drive to show me Cagliari. Antonella and Vanna have been more than accommodating. The room I am in is quaint, but has a large modern bathroom, which is very nice. It also must have been fate that I stayed in that room because the comforter has Fleur de Lys on it. They also share in the love of dogs. They have three; one is a 17 year old mini pincher named Margherita, who is blind, but is really cute and who can walk around the backyard - cautiously of course.

Driving around Cagliari, only one world comes to mind.....Breathtaking. I cannot begin to describe it. A new world feel with rolling mountains, scenic views, lush greenery and structures ranging from 4th century basilicas to beautiful govenment buildings built in the 1700s. The streets in the historic area are narrow enough that is barely fits a car, yet Antonella navigated them with ease. 

He dropped me off at Poetto beach, which was fantastic. The water was crystal blue and the cove reminded me Virgin Gorda in the BVIs. Even though it was in the high 60s, some people still were sun bathing in swimsuits. I rolled up my pants and got to walk along the coast, and feel the water around me. There was also a beach side café where they had hammock chairs set up that people could just sit down and nap in the sun with the surf in the background. I managed to download a couple songs on my Driod X before I left, so I enjoyed a cold beer on the beach while listening to "I Remember" by Kaskade and Deadmau5. 

I took the bus back to the B&B (The bus system is fantastic and easy to get around in), for yet another nap before heading into town for dinner...that is another entry all amongst itself, which I will write around later.

Going to get my culture on and walk through the historic district and visit the National Archealogical Musuem.

Averrederci!

Ansleys Italy Self Discovery Tour 2010 - Day Two

I made it to Cagliari, Sardinia. The lovely bed and breakfast I am at has a laptop I can use, but with an italian keyboard that I can not seem to find the apostrophe on. So I am going to speak very properly without the use of conjunctions or possesion.

I slept in very late today, which was awesome. Check out time was noon, and I barely made that. I had the entire afternoon to kill until my flight out, so I did the Colloseum and Forum.

Of course they are "must dos" in Rome. The Colloseum was surprisingly smaller than one would imagine. Our tour guide kept compare and contrasting the history and references to the movie Gladiator, which I found humorous. I am only guessing since the tour was in English (Although I would say less than half the group were native English speakers), the movie Gladiator was prolly the most common shared connection amongst us.

I went to the Forum next, which although astounding in its size and story, was simply ruin after ruin after ruin. It was almost too much. I tried to imagine myself a ancient Roman woman walking through the grounds on a nice afternoon stroll.

After taking the metro back, it was time to get a taxi and head to Ciampino (Cham-pi-no) airport. It actually was a great taxi ride because I got to go through "arria antica" which was the old world neighborhood and housing area for Roman and Italian aristrocrats. All cobblestone and huge stone walls. Very scenic.

A quick no-frills flight on Ryanair and Antonello from my B&B picked me up. He said after breakfast he will take me around town and show me some points of interests.

Well, I am exhuasted...this American is not used to walking so much!

One thing I forgot to mention yesterday, is that my first excursion out, I was simply walking around down the hill from my hotel and saw a line of people waiting in front of a small church. At the end of the line I went to see what they were in line for and on the other side was "Bocca della Verità", the mouth of truth structure made famous by the old movie Roman Holiday. I did not want to wait in line and test the validity of the fable by putting my hand in the mouth, so I took a picture of it, which was enough satisfaction for me.


Buena sera!

Ansley's Italy Self Discovery Tour 2010 - Day 1

Okay.... So I made it to Rome. The web TV and keyboard I have is sketchy, so I apologize for any great mispellings.  Not that you would expect anything less from me.

I still managed to get on the flight from Chicago O'Hare, event after missing my orginal flight out of Dallas and having to shell out my original travel budget to get on the next flight. Lesson learned.

I was very impressed with the flight to ORD. The plane was huge and baller, with a TV on each seat and a choice of movies to watch. So I was very dissapointed when I got on the plane to Rome, that was much older. Even the Business class was sub par compared to the previous flight.

The flight itself was quick. (Thank you Xanax). I managed to watch the entirely of "Letters to Juliette" which was not only a run of the mill romance movie, but a complete waste and misuse of Gael Garcia Bernal. The lady in front of me also acted like she had never ridden a plane before; which meant her gawking and hollerring at the screen showing the projected path of the airplane and the temperature outside.
             
After the easiest customs check (didn't even get a stamp on the ol passport!), I made my way to the Hotel San Anselmo, which is tucked away in an actual neighborhood. My room wasn't ready, so spent a few hours exploring the Trastevere neighborhood, which was across the Tevere River.

My main goal in all of this was to find "Ristorante Pizzaria Roma Sparita", which is where Anthony Boudain went on a No Reservations episode and had the cacio e pepe. Although on the air the location was secret,  thanks to my mad Googling skills and a lucky search....I found it! The location was suppose to be at Piazza Santa Cecilia, but for the likes of me I passed by the piazza 3 times and couldn't find it. I did get to sit in on a lovely organ playing by a nun at the nearby basilica. Finally, after leaving the basilica, I look to my left and in clear view, there it was....closed. Appearantly, Mondays and Wednesday's are very popular days for places to be closed. But heaven help me I am not leaving Rome without eating the cacio e pepe from Roma Sparita. So stay tuned!

I walked up a nearby street and found a cute women's boutique. Right when I walked in I noticed a women at a sewing machine. She was young looking, and after saying our greetings, I find out that every piece of clothing in the store she made herself. I found an chic (and one of a kind) jacket that I just couldn't pass up. Livia even sewed the buttons on herself as I waited. My first clothing purchase in Rome and it is a good one.

Livia referred me to the area known as the "Jewish Ghetto" for lunch where there are lots of Kosher restaurants. I decided that my first meal had to be pasta. So after my Morreti beer, pasta Alla'Aamartrichira e caffe, I needed to head back to get to my room. Oh, and I got my first "Ciao Bella!!" walking on the streets.

I got back to the San Anselmo and got showed my room. My amazing, immaculate, gorgeous golden room. Seriously, it is called the Golden Room. It has a chandelier. A CHANDELIER! And a terrace that you might see in any Italian movie. The happiness was even better when they brought up complimentary spumante. Before I cracked I open, I went out to enjoy the terrace, when the couple in the room next to me said hello as they were having wine and snacks on the terrace next door. They (Marron and Kathy) were from Boston, but when I said I was from Dallas, Kathy said she lived there for 25 years. After a few minutes of communication, they invited me over to share in their wine and cheese spread. They were a fun couple, and it was nice to have good conversation over a few glass of wine.

But now that brings me here. Ready for a little power nap and shower, but heading back into the city to find dinner and vino.

Hopefully today was just the tip of the iceberg in my travels. Tomorrow is Colloseum time, and leaving for Sardinia in the evening.

Ciao!