Zen and the Art of Ansley (Day 4 & 5)

I had not planned much in Tokyo, basically just wanting to take in the city and do a little shopping.

Yesterday, I dedicated to shopping and unfortunately was not very successful. Reasons being 1) my frame and stature are a little big. I don't mean that in a "oh I am so fat" way - *but who am I kidding, I need to tone up* - just nothing, NOTHING fit me. I kept seeing size 36 and 38, and there wasn't a 40 in sight. 2) The inexpensive dining options are balanced out by the ridiculously extensive AND expensive shopping. Couple stories to give some background:

• When I finally realized that a clothing size 40 was no where to be found, I shifted my focus on shoes. But even in the big sizes, the largest they had was the equivalent of an 8. This is a common occurrence, Google it. At one time, the very nice and trendy shoe shop girl was trying to wedge my elephant foot into some gray booties. She was trying her best and I was mortified as there was just no hope.
• The department stores here put New York to shame. It's insane. To put it into perspective, take Barney's, Neiman Marcus and Nordstrom and add them into one store. Then put two floors of awesome restaurants (just restaurants mind you) on top of the building. Then put a grocery store and specialty market with insanely good snacks, pastries, sushi and sweets and put that on the basement. Now take that one mega department store and make 4 of them and put them in a .5 mile radius. THAT is what it is like. Udayku, Keio, Lumine and Takashiyama all reside in Shinjuku and is where shopaholics should go to die.
• I was able to buy a few pieces from a Japan branded stores Beams. It tapped out my shopping budget (I spent a little at the Uniqlo earlier). I loved the clothes at the other Japan stores Tomorrowland and United Arrows. Totally my style and I hope I can find some similar pieces back in the states.

So to wrap up my last two days in Japan I knocked out a couple famous neighborhoods - Harajuku (Hi Gwen Stefani!) and Ginza, ate more ramen, met up with my Kyoto friend Bryan where he introduced me to a plum liqueur called Umeshu. ate shabu shabu, visited Shibuya to witness the world famous street crossing, and took in my last sunset over Mount Fuji.

Likes and Notes:

• Clean subways and public transportation. Seriously, can Tokyo give New York their strategy?
• Park Hyatt - It was a great "vacation" during my trip. Everything is done to the highest level of quality. There is a certain old world sense too as the door is still an actually key, not a card. It was a miracle I didn't lose it.
• Did I mention how much I loved Kyoto? Oh, yeah I loved Kyoto.
• I have perfected "arigato gozaimasu", which is said everywhere around here.
• I want to learn Japanese

Yay, now time to get 3 hours sleep so I can take a $$$ cab ride to catch my Sunday 6:50 AM flight. See you at 5:50 AM on Sunday in New York!

Zen and the Art of Ansley (Day 3)

It is actually Saturday morning in Tokyo, but I am recapping the last couple days.

First, Happy belated Thanksgiving to all. From what I have seen on Facebook, it was a great holiday shared by all.

Thursday was my last day in Kyoto and I managed to pack in a full day before taking the Shinkansen back to Tokyo that evening. That morning was chock full of shrines and temples, and I probably only saw about 10% of what Kyoto has.

Writers Note: Thanks to the wonder that is Wikipedia, I am not going to go in to detail on each shrine, because I am sure Wikipedia does a better job at explaining the history and meaning :) I will just write about my experience.

My first stop was Kinkaku-ji, the Golden Pavilion; which is exactly what is was. A golden painted pavilion situated on a small lake that reflected perfectly off the still water (pretty sure that was the point) and had some lovely walking paths with mini statues laid throughout that I tried to throw a coin into a pot and make a wish. I almost got one in and the group of women next to me cheered at me. Of course the foliage was amazing.

Near by was Daitoku-ji, another Buddist temple that had over 20 sub temples laid throughout the area that you could pay admission to enter and walk through the buildings and observe the gardens and rock formations. Of course you had to take your shoes off if you wanted to walk around.Photography was not allowed in any of the temples, so the images will last only in my mind, but are vivid enough for me.


While I was walking through the area, I noticed groups of women dressed in traditional kimonos going from temple to temple for formal tea ceremonies.


The first one I visited was Ōbai-in which was open to the public for a special time. The rock garden was particularly cool and the wind was blowing just enough that it rustled the trees in a calming sound. I joined a few people sitting on the outdoor area, meditating in silence and taking it all in.

I randomly chose another one (the name escapes me but it started with an S), and while exploring the building I overheard a Japanese man explaining the rooms to a American traveller. My usually nosey self, I asked a wuestion and they invited me to come with them to see the rest of the temple.

Turns out the American I met was named Bryan, a writer from Vermont visiting Japan to get material for his next book. The Japanese gentleman was a tour guide that Bryan randomly met earlier and had offered to take him around. They asked if I had gone to Daisen-in - which I hadn't - and they offered to take me there and show me around. It was great because the staff at the temple new the tour guide, and he was able to take us to "closed areas" that you normally couldn't go if wandering solo. He also explained the rock garden that surrounded the building and how it symbolizes one starts out with a cloudy mind and un-clear thoughts (this is shown by various rocks scattered throughout the gravel) and through meditation and practice, one's mind can be clear, which was displayed by a large garden that was completely empty of rocks, and just had manicured raked gravel.

We then had tea ceremony (not a real tea ceremony, but a mini one they use for tourists), but it was still cool as the host warmed the cups and made green tea from traditional powered tea and mixed it with little bamboo whisks so it was a bit frothy. As we were sipping the tour guide said the whole point of a tea ceremony is to relax and have all people from any classes (shoguns and such) come as one. He explained a lot of other things through the temple as well - basically everything, every stone and tree had a meaning and purpose to be there. As we exited, I met the head priest of the temple and he paid me a very nice compliment :)

On the way out I found out Bryan was also heading back to Tokyo that evening and we decided to possibly meet up for a drink that next night.

After Daitoku-ji, I headed to Gogyo Kyoto, which specialized in "burnt ramen"- look it up. It was delicious.

My feet were already aching and I was heavily debating checking out one more sight or just hopping on the Shinkasen. My curiosity prevailed and I took the subway down to Fushimi Inari. which it famous for miles and miles of orange gates to walk through the mountain. I am glad I went as it was getting close to sunset and I got some great sightseeing. I only went about 1/4 of the way up and decided it was time to head back. So now I have to come back to go all the way through.

After I hurried back to the capsule hotel, gathered my things and said goodbye to the absolutely wonderful guys that manned the counter and hotel (they gave me a set of chopsticks as a parting gift), I hopped on the Nozomi Super Express bound for Tokyo.

My last few nights are being spent in the Park Hyatt - the film from Lost in Translation. I loved going from one end of the scale in my tatami capsule to the the other end; a five start hotel with a room bigger than my apartment...for real. Thank you client travel that has allowed me to rack up Hyatt points to use on this trip! Otherwise there would be no way I could do this on my own.

Once I got into my room I was so exhausted and caved to my one Western cheat and ordered a burger and fries from room service - and it was absolutely delicious. I ain't even embarrassed. And I slept great that night.

Day 4 (Friday), coming later...

Zen and the Art of Ansley (Day 2)

I realized this really should be Day 3 since I lost a day in travel, but I gain a day going back so it evens out.

The Skinkansen to Kyoto was stellar. It passed by Mount Fuji, which was awe inspiring to say the least. I was sitting on the opposite side of the train, so I got pics of people taking pictures of Mount Fuji. Will try for the the other side on the way back.

After arriving at Kyoto Station (which is huge and technically all open area, but you don't really notice until you get outside and and realize you never actually walked through a door), and meandered trying to find my capsule hotel which I found after walking by it twice without noticing. Nonetheless, it is a great place - mentioned in Lonely Planet Japan 2013. I booked a tatami capsule, which is exactly what it is. a 8 by 4 area for sleeping and not much else. There are 8 capsule in this room, and has very much a hostel feel. They have private rooms, but they were booked. I never did the whole "hostel" thing in my 20's - nor do I regret it, because really, I aint exactly a hostel-type gal - but this wasn't bad at all. The staff speaks great English, and doesn't mind my incessant questions. It is immaculately clean and free wifi, which cures my daily Facebook and You Tube fix.

The moment I got situated and walked into the Lobby and a conversation in English about ramen and Ippudo which was in Kyoto. Ippudo!! There is an Ippudo in Kyoto. For those that don't know, Ippudo has various locations in Japan and recently opened on up in NYC's East Village (my hood). It is ridiculously good and therefore the wait is ridiculously long, and a bit pricey in Manhattan. Anyways, I had my lunch plans for Wednesday.

Back to the convo - the fellow speaking about it was speaking in an American accent and after I made my "Ippudo is awesome" interruption, I introduced myself and found out his name was Victor, he lived in Austin, went to UT and was travelling on pleasure as well. It was nice to have a friendly acquaintance, so we went to have dinner and he shared with me some of his culinary must do's that he has discovered while in Kyoto and Tokyo. He forwarded an email from his friend that was was using, and to say it is extensive is an understatement. Weeks could be used to eat at all the places - oh I can dream...After a quick dinner we decided to travel the next morning to Arashiyama (a small city west of Kyoto) to check out the Bamboo Grove and some temples.

After the meal and technically working on 4 hours sleep in 36 hours, I needed to crash. Thanks to some maximum cushioning ear-buds and a half of Xanax, I slept like a baby in my little cocoon a la Fifth Element.

11/27 Places of interest:

• Arashiyama (Love, Love, Love)
• Bamboo Grove - So cool. Ironically, the streets we walked through are on Google Street view so anyone can view it digitally for themselves.
• Tenryu-ji Temple - My first temple visit. Very Zen like and impeccably manicured gardens
• Shijo Neighborhood in Kyoto
• Ippudo - Delish. Duh. \850 for a bowl of ramen, goyza, rice and all the green tea you can drink. Awesome!
• Walked through Nishiki Food Market and picked up some marzepan
• Kiyomizu-den Temple
• Very awe inspiring (I think I am going to be using that word a lot_). I paid \100 for my "fortune"which I shook a wooden cylinder and a stick with writing came out, and then you get a piece of paper with your fortune written on it, but it is all in Japanese. Poor hotel staff doesn't know what is coming to them when I ask them to translate.
• I then walked around the cobble stone streets trying to find my way back and picked up a chock full of souvenirs and basically just took in the scene and women in full kimono wear.
• Tonight, a tempura dinner

Likes:

• Foliage. Seriously. I just can't. The colors and views and everything are just too much. Pics won't do it justice, although I really want to know where else in the world could match what I saw today.
• Eating my way through the city.

Not so like:

• Dog hair from back home infiltrated my suitcase, and I am still picking off Winnie hair through my wardrobe, which is of course mostly black.

Side Note: They are in full Christmas decor and mood here. It was odd walking down Shijo dori and hearing Jingle Bells.

Zen and the Art of Ansley (Day 1)

First, I am typing on a Japanese keyboard that has the tiniest space bar I have ever seen...so bare with me.

Second, after a 15 hours (1 hour delay leaving JFK and 2 hour arriving due to weather) I made it Tokyo. I missed the last shuttle to my airport and was forced to wait in an hour long line for a taxi. Luckily I made acquaintances with a fellow New Yorker on the plane and we shared a cab into the city. It helped otherwise it would have been over a bill.

The Hyatt Regency is great! Room is modern (glass window in the bathroom that you can see through the bedroom!). It had a black out curtains that allowed for complete darkness while I got in a good 5 hours sleep. Love that. Today I briefly visited Shinjuku area to try to get a pre-paid nano sim card for my Iphone (no luck), and a lighter jacket as it is rather mild here (I had luck at the Uniqlo - yes we have those in NYC, but I can say I got this one in Tokyo at least :) )

Soon I am will be boarding the Shikansen (bullet train) down to Kyoto - a true test  how little Japanese I know. Quick tidbits:

Likes:

• Everyone is super friendly
• The food and grocery stores the basement of the Oekyu department stores is awesome. I got a small bento box and a delicious panko crusted pork on a stick for 6 dollars.
• Loving the vibe and the weather

Not so much:

• The uber delay coming in
• size L for women is not large enough for me :( at least in the skirt department.

Agozaimasu!