Zen and the Art of Ansley (Day 3)

It is actually Saturday morning in Tokyo, but I am recapping the last couple days.

First, Happy belated Thanksgiving to all. From what I have seen on Facebook, it was a great holiday shared by all.

Thursday was my last day in Kyoto and I managed to pack in a full day before taking the Shinkansen back to Tokyo that evening. That morning was chock full of shrines and temples, and I probably only saw about 10% of what Kyoto has.

Writers Note: Thanks to the wonder that is Wikipedia, I am not going to go in to detail on each shrine, because I am sure Wikipedia does a better job at explaining the history and meaning :) I will just write about my experience.

My first stop was Kinkaku-ji, the Golden Pavilion; which is exactly what is was. A golden painted pavilion situated on a small lake that reflected perfectly off the still water (pretty sure that was the point) and had some lovely walking paths with mini statues laid throughout that I tried to throw a coin into a pot and make a wish. I almost got one in and the group of women next to me cheered at me. Of course the foliage was amazing.

Near by was Daitoku-ji, another Buddist temple that had over 20 sub temples laid throughout the area that you could pay admission to enter and walk through the buildings and observe the gardens and rock formations. Of course you had to take your shoes off if you wanted to walk around.Photography was not allowed in any of the temples, so the images will last only in my mind, but are vivid enough for me.


While I was walking through the area, I noticed groups of women dressed in traditional kimonos going from temple to temple for formal tea ceremonies.


The first one I visited was Ōbai-in which was open to the public for a special time. The rock garden was particularly cool and the wind was blowing just enough that it rustled the trees in a calming sound. I joined a few people sitting on the outdoor area, meditating in silence and taking it all in.

I randomly chose another one (the name escapes me but it started with an S), and while exploring the building I overheard a Japanese man explaining the rooms to a American traveller. My usually nosey self, I asked a wuestion and they invited me to come with them to see the rest of the temple.

Turns out the American I met was named Bryan, a writer from Vermont visiting Japan to get material for his next book. The Japanese gentleman was a tour guide that Bryan randomly met earlier and had offered to take him around. They asked if I had gone to Daisen-in - which I hadn't - and they offered to take me there and show me around. It was great because the staff at the temple new the tour guide, and he was able to take us to "closed areas" that you normally couldn't go if wandering solo. He also explained the rock garden that surrounded the building and how it symbolizes one starts out with a cloudy mind and un-clear thoughts (this is shown by various rocks scattered throughout the gravel) and through meditation and practice, one's mind can be clear, which was displayed by a large garden that was completely empty of rocks, and just had manicured raked gravel.

We then had tea ceremony (not a real tea ceremony, but a mini one they use for tourists), but it was still cool as the host warmed the cups and made green tea from traditional powered tea and mixed it with little bamboo whisks so it was a bit frothy. As we were sipping the tour guide said the whole point of a tea ceremony is to relax and have all people from any classes (shoguns and such) come as one. He explained a lot of other things through the temple as well - basically everything, every stone and tree had a meaning and purpose to be there. As we exited, I met the head priest of the temple and he paid me a very nice compliment :)

On the way out I found out Bryan was also heading back to Tokyo that evening and we decided to possibly meet up for a drink that next night.

After Daitoku-ji, I headed to Gogyo Kyoto, which specialized in "burnt ramen"- look it up. It was delicious.

My feet were already aching and I was heavily debating checking out one more sight or just hopping on the Shinkasen. My curiosity prevailed and I took the subway down to Fushimi Inari. which it famous for miles and miles of orange gates to walk through the mountain. I am glad I went as it was getting close to sunset and I got some great sightseeing. I only went about 1/4 of the way up and decided it was time to head back. So now I have to come back to go all the way through.

After I hurried back to the capsule hotel, gathered my things and said goodbye to the absolutely wonderful guys that manned the counter and hotel (they gave me a set of chopsticks as a parting gift), I hopped on the Nozomi Super Express bound for Tokyo.

My last few nights are being spent in the Park Hyatt - the film from Lost in Translation. I loved going from one end of the scale in my tatami capsule to the the other end; a five start hotel with a room bigger than my apartment...for real. Thank you client travel that has allowed me to rack up Hyatt points to use on this trip! Otherwise there would be no way I could do this on my own.

Once I got into my room I was so exhausted and caved to my one Western cheat and ordered a burger and fries from room service - and it was absolutely delicious. I ain't even embarrassed. And I slept great that night.

Day 4 (Friday), coming later...